Hearing about 1.2 kilograms of gold, you’d certainly think of something valuable—but not exactly life-changing.
Things were quite different in the 19th century, the era when the story of the house that “makes a face” begins.
Back then, the economy of Scanno was essentially controlled by Francesco di Rienzo, known to everyone as “don Ciccio”. As a member of the pastoral bourgeoisie (a sort of intermediate social class, with no noble titles but immense purchasing power), he held near-absolute control over the population—providing jobs and a sense of security, but not without expecting something in return...
He demanded many signs of devotion from his protégés, one of which would be unthinkable today: he exercised, according to his whims (and based on certain aesthetic standards), the so-called *jus primae noctis*.
In plain terms, in exchange for work and dowries, he believed it his right to claim the first night of newlywed brides. But we digress…
His palace—the most luxurious in town—was built in a panoramic and strategic spot. The houses on the opposite side of the road were deliberately kept low, so as not to obstruct don Ciccio’s privileged view from his noble balcony.
Until… a certain Spagnolo built his own home directly in front of that balcony. He made it tall enough and gave it windows positioned in such a way that the façade looks like a mocking face. Legend has it that his wife brought a dowry of 1.2 kilograms of gold, and therefore owed “nothing at all” to the local lord.
As the only surviving proof of this tale passed down through generations in the homes of Scanno, we have the houses themselves—still visible today for anyone strolling through the historic center.
The Palace of don Ciccio, and the house that has always mocked it—together, they reveal so much about the spirit of us Scannesi.
